Summer rolls on. The grape harvest has started. The roads are sticky with dried grape juice, tires emitting a loud hum as we cut through the vineyards and out of Provence. The air is hot the fields are dry, but we’re pointed towards the mountains. We’re spending a few days riding through Ardeche, and the eastern edge of the Parc national des Cévennes. Tonight we’re north of Bessèges, an old mining town at the bottom of the descent from the Col de Trelis