Olive trees, cypress, almond blossoms and vineyards. I grabbed a handful of rosemary to enjoy the scent. A woman walked along the road with a handful of wild asparagus. I paused in Tautavel, near the bottom of the gorge for a coffee. I didn’t need the caffeine, but the cafe is lively and I could savor the morning a bit longer. The gorge is cold, but the sun here is warm Sunday is no day to arrive early to a French city. I spied a small road warning large vehicles to steer clear. My small vehicle would be fine. I’d gain 10km and the Col du Canteloup. Below, in the vineyards, the boar hunters in their orange vests and caps. They wave, I wish them “Bon chance!”. The Garmin will ensure I’m not lost, but I can turn off the screen and pretend. Approaching Narbonne, the village of Bages perches on a hill, small boats dragged ashore below, and just out of reach of my lens: Pink flamingos.